Early July of this year – I had just discovered my SNAFU with the dates for my Whitney Trail permit and Randy was one of the affected parties. Randy thought he could scramble and still make the trip, but together we arrived at the conclusion that 2 weeks in August would trump one week in July.
Randy arrived at SFO on Saturday 8/13; we picked him up and headed to Tiburon for some lunch and a view of San Francisco from across the bay. Crawling through Saturday afternoon traffic in SF, I was reminded why we’re seldom in SF on a Saturday afternoon in a car. Some lunch, a visit to the railroad museum, then it’s “you want to see more City or something wilder?” – something wilder it is. We headed down Highway 1 towards Santa Cruz, stopping to see a few sights along the way. Dinner on the SC Wharf and then home where Randy crashed after a long, long day – Alabama time being 3 hours ahead of us, he was coming up on 20 hours or so of being awake.
Next morning (Sunday), we went to our climbing gym for a little tuneup – turns out Randy, while a beginner climber, has some good intuition for body movement and climbed some nice routes. We abused him a little with a roof problem, some crack climbing and I think a mantel move or two, and all too soon we were all nicely burned out and ready to move on.
On the way home, we decided to head east and get into the mountains right away. We packed all our gear – and Trebuchet – into the camper and headed out; my plan was to sleep just outside the YNP west entrance and then get into the park early in the morning. As we were nearing our camping spot, just a little after dusk, a mountain lion ran across the highway in front of us. Nice. I would not have been more surprised to see a herd of unicorns.
Monday morning, up and out and off to the Tuolumne Grove of giant Sequoias. There’s no picture I’ve seen that does justice to how big these trees are. The best perspective we got was actually an old dead tree lying down – incredible. We headed on east, stopping at Olmstead Point to take a look at some big granite. Nice views of Tenaya Canyon, Cloud’s Rest, Half Dome and other et cetera, but the Donut Lady had her back to all the scenery due to other priorities. Takes a lot of frosted deep-fried simple carbs to achieve that profile, I guess.
We crawled on through Yosemite, parked just outside the East Entrance, and headed out for a little leg stretcher up Gaylor Peak. The map on the signage at the trail head called out Gaylor Peak at 12,750 feet, an amusing mistake. Wandering along, taking our time, taking pictures, looking at stuff, we were on Gaylor about 45 minutes later – ostensibly having gained 2,800 feet in that time, we were definitely in shape for any adventure we could dream up! We contemplated the Gaylor Lakes basin, the Cathedral Range and other outstanding scenery while snacking. We then downclimbed off the north end of Gaylor and made our way up to the old mining works. On the way back to the trail head we discovered the wonders of the mosquito bloom after a late summer.
We camped at our secret spot in the Mono Basin. Our plan for the next day was Glacier Canyon.
Tuesday morning, up at a leisurely hour, we made our way to the Glacier Canyon trail head. I noticed some paddleboarders crossing the lake as we pulled up; it turned out they had parked at the Tioga Lake entrance and were contemplating the Glacier Canyon trail sign as we walked up. One of them had on attire we aren’t used to in the “wilderness”, so Carol posed with her. Lower Glacier Canyon was infested with falls, cascades and carpets of wildflowers, and we moved through quickly – j/k! Climbing higher, the trail soon leveled out and we were in a meadow with thousands of wild onions in bloom. A little higher and it was columbine time.
Up and over a couple talus headwalls and we arrived at Dana Lake, which had been frozen over when we looked down from Mt Dana a month before. Now it was almost completely melted except for a couple of icebergs. At first I thought they were anchored somehow, but it turned out they were moving around the lake with the wind. Quite a sight. Of course, there was the beyond blue waters of Dana Lake and the still-corniced peak of Mount Dana to contemplate.
We climbed out of Glacier Canyon up onto the Dana Plateau and went off looking for the approach
hike for 3rd Pillar of Dana. Crossing the plateau, we arrived at the edge and looked down many chutes looking for the ‘3rd class downclimb’, invariably backing away going “that can’t be it!” We kept casting about, though, working our way further and further north along the plateau edge until – Carol found it. So now we know how to get there; having the mojo to pack climbing gear out there and climb 5.10b trad – that may have to wait.
Wednesday – acclimatization seems to be going well, no headaches or nausea amongst the team, the weather looks perfect so – we’re going for our third attempt at getting to Upper Lundy Falls in Lundy Canyon. Carol and I have been a little starstruck in Lundy Canyon – twice before, just before getting to the upper falls, we’d been chased down by lightning – as in flash / instant boom lightning. Not to complain; it’s a great hike nonetheless – and last fall, the colors were exceptional.
At the trailhead, we grabbed daypacks and headed off – not too far up the trail, a little side branch leads you to the bottom of a really nice beaver dam and lake. Then a little further up the trail, views of the lake with a beaver lodge plus the lower Lundy falls are in view (and hearing). We worked our way up canyon, stopping to enjoy the sights and sounds, and then made it to the shale talus slope that leads to the upper falls. The shale layers are tilted to almost vertical, so rock weathering is proceeding apace, and pretty much no piece of rock along the face can be counted on as a secure handhold. Fortunately, the really unpleasant part of the scramble only lasts for 300 feet vertical (or so) and then you get on a decent trail again, and before too long the upper falls appear. Nice. Clearly we’re on a fault system, as rock seams are almost vertical on the left, then more or less horizontal under the falls.
Climbing up over the top of the falls, we’re in a wonderland of snowbanks, cascades and flowers. Awesome. We kept climbing and then stopped for a snack on top of a glacial erratic perched on a nicely glacially polished protrusion. A couple and their dog wandered by, asking how far to the top of Lundy Falls; we told them and off they went. Not too long after, Randy arrived and then the couple (Alan and Mary Ann) came back – and started talking to us about where we had come from – “Lundy Canyon Trailhead”. Turns out they had come the other direction from Saddlebag Lake and were on a loop trail in something called 20 Lakes Basin. As much time as we’ve spent in the Tioga Pass area, this little gem had somehow escaped detection. Anyway, Alan and Mary Ann offered up that if we wanted to continue on through 20 Lakes with them, they’d shuttle us back to our car at the Lundy trailhead. Let’s see, see new territory on a relatively flat trail, avoid the scramble back down the shale scree / talus slope and 2,000 feet of elevation drop – SOLD!
We headed on up the canyon and pretty soon found ourselves at Lake Helen where Gidget proved herself adept at fetching a stick in the water…
On we went, encountering ever more beautiful lakes, cirques, knife edge ridges, granite peaks – oh, and mosquitoes. Fortunately, Carol and I were prepared and actually resorted to head nets. Reaching Saddlebag Lake, not only did we get to ride across the lake on the ferry, but Carol, having offhandedly asked “Can I drive?”, got an answer she didn’t expect – “Sure!”. After a nice breezy trip across the lake, we all loaded into Alan and Mary Ann’s vehicle and headed for Lundy Canyon. It turns out it was Mary Ann’s birthday, so we all wound up at the Mono Inn having dinner and celebrating – both the birthday and the “third time’s the charm” through-hike of Lundy Canyon.
Thursday we declared a rest day and spent touring geological sights (pumice mine, Obsidian Dome, etc) and then headed out to Bodie State Park late in the afternoon. Lots of interesting leftovers from the mining days, including some hair-raising equipment for getting workers up and down the mine shafts. Let’s just say OSHA was not even a glimmer in those days.
Friday was a sport climbing day at Clark Canyon – always a big favorite for cragging. We worked Randy up to doing his first-ever sport lead climb (“Mobetta Fogetta”, 5.7, ***), and then just to show off, took his first ever lead fall later in the day (“Ugly, Fat and Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen”, 5.7, ****) – and finished the climb. Well done!
Saturday we headed over to the Benton Crags for a trad climbing session. I led “Locals Only” and then Randy did his first trad cleaning job while I admired how straight I had kept the rope despite the wandering nature of the climb. We then headed back to Junk Food Rock where I put up a lead on “Golden Arch”. Randy climbed and cleaned, then did a mock lead on top rope, placing gear and clipping along the way. Between the heat and the newness of trad gear placement, Randy decided not to do his first ever trad lead that day.
Sunday morning, showers and laundry, much discussion (“I want to get in a 14’er”) and we wound up heading up into the White Mountains. We went for an evening hike in the Methuselah Grove, admiring the old, old bristlecone pines.
Monday morning, fairly early, we headed out to climb White Mountain, one of the California Fourteeners – the easiest one, in fact. If you can drive to the parking area and then put one foot in front of the other for 7 miles (one way) on a 4wd road, you can top out on White Mountain.
Marmots, sheep, flowers – and just amazing scenery. The White Mountain trail and White Mountain sit on the west side of the White Mountains, which means you can see everything to the west of you spread out in a panorama that has to be seen to be believed. There was a little storm system blowing through; the air was crystal clear – and you could see from Olancha Peak in the south to north of Bridgeport and the Sweetwater Range. That’s more than 170 miles of Sierra Nevada crest in view. It was easy to pick out Mt Langley, Mt Whitney, Mt Williamson, Mt Tyndall, Split Mountain, Middle Palisade, Mt Sill, Polemonium Peak, North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak – all Fourteeners, and White Mountain is higher than all but 2 of them. Just Freaking Awesome.
Snacks, picture taking, some excitement when a few snow crystals fell on us, and then it was time for the long hike back to the truck. Food, fluids, a little sitting and taking in more scenery, and pretty soon we (me) felt able to drive back to camp.
Tuesday morning we took our time getting up and about and breaking camp, then headed back down the hill. With yesterday’s 14 mile jaunt under our belts, why not hike from Lake Sabrina to Blue Lake for an afternoon leg stretcher? Lots of driving, back through Big Pine, Bishop and up the hill toward the Sierra and then we arrived at the Sabrina Basin trailhead. Last time Carol and I had done this hike, it had just snowed, so today would be pretty different. Always fun to amble with someone that hasn’t been to a spot before, and get to share the excitement of discovery with them.
Après-hike, everyone was hungry so we headed into Bishop and got our carnivore on at Bar-B-Que Bills. This became significant for me later on. We headed up into Pine Creek Canyon with the goal of doing a 3-pitch trad climb in the morning.
Wednesday morning, 5 a.m. – I’m lying awake trying to digest last night’s dinner, hear a rumble, then the truck starts shaking. We’re having an earthquake – not a big one, but the epicenter is about 28 miles away, so it’s noticeable. You’re welcome, Randy! Welcome to California!
I knew the climb (P.S.O.M. Slab, “Racing Lizards”, 5.7 ****stars) would be facing the sun, so we tried to get moving earlier than usual, but didn’t get to the bottom of the climb until about 9:30. No matter, we’re here and the climb looks fun. Gearing up – who’s going to lead? Carol, knowing that I spent the night digesting Bar-B-Que and that I’m not feeling the best, offers to lead the first pitch. Hell yeah. Geared up, on belay, the opening moves are on a bolted slab. Above the fourth bolt, Carol is making a trickier move, I see her losing her balance, but believe she’ll save it – but she falls – and falls further than she expected between the smile in the rope, taking up on the quickdraws and rope stretch. She’s OK, regroups and finishes the pitch. Randy followed and cleaned, then I followed on the second rope with no duties but to climb and have fun – and wow, is it fun. There’s an awesome little fingers crack that is super fun. Joining Randy and Carol at the belay, I tell Carol she’s doing great (which she was), and, gear reracked, on belay, and she’s off up the second pitch. Again, Randy cleans and I follow, free to pick any route and just have fun. Third pitch, rinse and repeat.
Next thing I know, we’re all at the top of the climb and Carol has just completed her first-ever three-pitch trad lead, and Randy has done his first multi-pitch trad climb. Good times all around, and congrats to Carol!!!
We headed down, made it to the bottom, packed up (“in the cauldron”, Carol would say, real warm at the bottom of the reflective white granite cliff) and hiked back to the truck. A little rest, packed up camp and headed off to the Mono Basin for the night.
Thursday – easy morning, headed up into Tuolumne to scramble up the Lembert Dome – I took my rock
shoes and had a great time feeling secure going up and down the steepest slabs I could manage – which pretty much means the consequences of slipping had to be within my boundaries for personal damage. Great views, an unbelievable mass of glacially polished granite, and pretty soon we’re back on the ground joining the tourist hordes. Dinner at Nicely’s and one last evening at camp in the Mono Basin.
Friday – up, broke camp and headed for Reno. Dropped Randy off at the airport to pick up his rental car and head off for the rest of his adventure. Carol and I headed for home and some well-earned rest!
Randy’s trip summary:
I SURE DID HAVE FUN AND LEARNED A LOT TOO! GREAT TRIP AND ONE THAT WILL BE REMEMBERED A LONG TIME..
Mountain lion, earthquakes, new climbing challenges, great places and views, mind boggling geology and landscape, Pacific coast, salty water & tuffa, the sequoia’s, all new animal and plant life. Even those familiar were very different there (Wow the size of that raccoon! Could not even identify a dogwood, one of my favorite flowering trees, since it was so different from here & Michigan)
Yep glad you guys keep me going! I was exhausted each night from all the new thing to see and learn, never mind the physical effort to get to them. But I had to see more each day.
Gotta go, time to pack for the next outing!
Namaste, Rick