• Category Archives Rock Climbing
  • Lone Pine, CA – Logistics and Things to Do

    Spindrift blows on the Sierra Crest from Mobius Arch, Alabama Hills

     

    We wind up hanging out around Lone Pine. A. Lot. It’s the warmest and driest major climbing area on the Eastside.

     

    The climbing at Alabama Hills is good (there’s choss, too, need to be selective), there’s good camping nearby, and we’ve found lots of rest day activities as well.

     

    Getting there from San Jose via Lake Isabella: http://tinyurl.com/ho3bvx5

     

    On the way to Lone Pine, I’ve added side trips to:

    • Kern River Brewing Company – good beer, decent bar food. Beer favorites – Just Outstanding IPA, Dirty Hippie Imperial Red Ale
    • Kern Canyon north of Kernville has some decent climbing on granite at the Kernville Slabs
    • Black Planets has some decent bouldering problems on basalt. There’s some sheltered camping that’s especially nice when the wind is blowing hard.
    • There’s a campground at Fossil Falls, and some good distributed camping further on down the road. A half day exploring Fossil Falls is pretty cool, too. And there’s climbing at Fossil Falls.

    Rock climbing near Lone Pine:

    • Alabama Hills – Lots of sport and some trad on “biotite monzogranite”. Translation – lots of flakes, patina, and some sharp crimps.
    • Whitney Portal – Sierra Nevada granite at high altitude.
    • There’s bouldering in the AH too. I haven’t seen – or looked for – a guidebook. As you come in on Movie Flat Road, the first significant set of boulders on the right have chalk all over them. Check out the downclimb, then pick your route.

    Camping Options

    • Tuttle Creek Campground is our favorite. New pit toilets, picnic tables, and fire rings. No potable water. Cell coverage (Verizon).
    • Portagee Joe is OK. We often fill up with water here.
    • Diaz Lake has a lot of sites. Looked like it caters to the RV crowd.
    • In season, Lone Pine Campground is nice.
    • Distributed camping is allowed, but not encouraged, in the Alabama Hills. It’s a fragile environment…

    I Don’t Camp Options

    Food, Fuel, Showers

    • There’s a small grocery store in Lone Pine. Don’t expect anything exotic.
    • There are several gas stations
    • There are several restaurants. Alabama Hills Cafe is popular for breakfast. Large portions.
    • Showers at the Whitney Portal Hostel are excellent. You get a towel and unlimited time.

    Potable Water

    Rest Day Activities

    • Some of the trails in the area.
    • The Lone Pine Museum of Western Film History is pretty good.
    • Mobius Arch is pretty cool. Morning or evening shots of Mt Whitney and the Sierra Crest are de rigueur.
    • A trail is being built from Lone Pine to the Whitney Portal. The trail starts here. Work north to the creek crossing and follow the trail.
    • We know where to find amazonite – fun scrambling and rockhounding. Directions here – scroll down and read about The Haystack.
    • Mazourka Canyon has tons of fossils just lying around. One trick is actually finding the right drainage. Drive east from Independence on Mazourka Canyon road. You’ll pass a railroad crossing and an old mine truck loading site. Just as the road take a hard bend left, toward the north, look for the huge exposed limestone formations. Get searching.
    • Manzanar National Historic Site, a few minutes north of Lone Pine, is a great visit. It will make you sad for what fear and racism can accomplish in the United States.

  • Exploring Death Valley

    Lilac Sunbonnets

     

    Death Valley – lowest, driest and hottest area in North America. Death Valley National Park – 3 million acres of wilderness. Huge.

    Driest and hottest – on the average. It also snows, rains, has big winds. Check the current weather.

    DV Personal Favorites

    • Salt Creek Desert Pupfish
    • The Grotto
    • Darwin Falls
    • Panamint Dunes
    • Ubehebe Peak
    • Flowers and wildlife…

    If you want to explore beyond the well-known tourist areas, I recommend these excellent guidebooks.

    dv1

    dv2

    geologyunderfootdv

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    A virtual adventure awaits in this next book – Badwater to Stovepipe Wells to Saline Valley, over the Inyo to Owens Valley and finally on to Mt. Whitney…

    salttosummit

    Canyoneering

    If you want to go where (almost) no one else goes – and have the skills, equipment and fortitude – try your hand at canyoneering. You can Google Death Valley Canyoneering, or here’s the most extensive list of DV canyons I’ve ever seen.

    Fair warning – DV canyoneering is not a casual undertaking. Long approaches, elaborate route finding, loose rock, sketchy anchors (deadman, knot blocks, retrievables…), car spots. If you’re not already an expert, go with someone that is.

    Having done exactly one DV canyoneering outing, I obviously can’t speak for all canyons, but I suspect you’ll be confronted by the dead man anchor in most canyons.

    Knowledge is power – here’s a video – starring the incomparable Tom Jones – on setting up a dead  man.

    Check out Canyoneering USA if you need gear or how-to’s or inspiration…

    I carry webbing, quick links and possibly some old climbing gear to back up anything I don’t like. Some dead man setups I’ve seen look bomber. Some were literally a pile of rocks on the edge of a cliff – I really like to back those up.

    Adventure time!

    Rock Climbing in the Area

    I’m not aware (and I’ve looked hard) of a lot of high quality climbing in DV itself.

    That said, The Grotto from the bottom up has lots of fairly short up and down climbing problems to solve. Face climbs, polished pouroffs, bouldering, even a climb next to a big chockstone where you can practice your crack technique. Carrying climbing shoes might improve your day. A harness and a cordelette (and even an etrier) might improve results for less experienced  party members.

    Guidebooks for some nearby spots:

    socalrockclimb

    Closest crag mentioned in the Southern California Rock Climbing guidebook – Great Falls Basin is west of a turnoff ~5 miles north of Trona. Granite sport climbing.

    bishoprockclimbs

    Or for much more extensive climbing roughly the same distance away – Alabama Hills near Lone Pine.

    And, if you’re coming or going from the east, Red Rock Canyon NCA is roughly the same distance away and there are more than a few climbs there…


  • 20140729 Trip Report – Banner Peak

    20120910070902 rs
    Morning Light at Thousand Island Lake. Banner Peak in the clouds.

     

    20120909124227 cs

     

    Couple years ago on an outing  in the Sierra Nevada I “discovered” this spot near Island Pass. Banner Peak and Mount Ritter are visible from so many places we’ve been, but I had just never recognized them or their significance.

    The idea of seeing  the view from the top of Banner Peak was compelling. This July, we made it a reality. Great trip – Carol, me, Ken and Sean – despite some challenges from rainy weather.

    Trail Head SelfieRush Creek to Thousand Island Lake pictures. Ken and Sean enjoyed the hike  in from the Rush Creek Trailhead so much that they returned to the trail head by a different route.

     

     

     

    20140729061602Thousand Island Lake to Banner Peak pictures. Peak day was pretty rough – lots of talus-hopping, route finding on 3rd class rock, glacier crossing (Carol’s favorite part!), watching for lightning-bearing-death-clouds and so forth. Happened across a great quote that applies – “Remember, it doesn’t have to be fun to be fun!” – Barry Blanchard

    Beta on climbing Banner Peak, “arguably the most picturesque peak in the Sierra Nevada” per Summit Post.

     

     

    BannerPano1 psPanoramic view from Banner Peak. Click through, select “full screen”, pan and zoom, check out the snapshots of landmarks…

     

     

    Bonus!

    We did a warm-up hike to North Peak before heading in to Thousand Island Lake

    P1070410-001 North Peak hike pictures. Beta on climbing North Peak.

     

     

     

    Carol Standing V1 pscrop

     

    Panoramic view from North Peak. Click through, select “full screen”, pan and zoom, check out the snapshots of landmarks…

     

     


  • Tahoe Area Rock Climbs – a Tick List

    0 TahoeAreaMap108922762_large_adb423

    Guidebooks / Links (GBL):

    1. Supertopo “South Lake Tahoe Climbing” 5 star system
    2. Camp 4 Press “Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of North Tahoe”
    3. Falcon “Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe” 3 star system
    4. mountainproject.com 4 star system
    5. supertopo.com 5 star system
    6. rocknroad.org
    7. thecrag.com

    Big Ass PDF file of Tahoe Area Moderates: TahoeAreaMaster v2

    Selected Climbs (locations generally trending from SW to NE in the area):

    • Sugarloaf / East Face / Scheister, 5.7 trad **** / GBL 1 p34
    • Phantom Spires / Upper Spire / Ginger Bread, 5.7 trad **** / GBL 1 p56
    • Phantom Spires / Middle Spire / Over Easy, 5.7 trad **** / GBL 1 p62 (Thanks, Mat!)
    • Lover’s Leap / Main  Wall / Corrugation Corner, 5.7 trad ***** / GBL 1 p104 Possible to link from Surrealistic Pillar. (Thanks, RR Peter)
    • Echo Lakes / Flagpole Peak / The Ramp, 5.8 trad*** / GBL 3 p140
    • Pie Shop / Left / Crepes Corner, 5.7 trad / GBL 3 p123
    • Eagle Creek Canyon / Eagle Lake Buttress / East Ridge Route, 5.7 trad *** / GBL 3 p84
    • Truckee River Canyon / Big Chief / South Wall / Smoke Signal, 5.10c sport *** / GBL 4 – and many more sport climbs
    • Donner Pass Road / School Rock / Kindergarden Crack Right, 5.7 trad / GBL 2 also GBL 7 +Many moderate trad climbs. (Thanks, RR Peter)
    • Donner Pass Road / Black Wall / One Hand Clapping, 5.9+ trad *** / GBL 4
    • Donner Pass Road / Grouse Slabs / Jellyroll Arch 5.8 trad *** / GBL 4
    • Spooner Crag / Maxwell’s Hammer 5.8+ trad ** / GBL 4
    • Woodfords Canyon / The Fortress / Sun Wall Area / The Perfect Lieback 5.8 trad **** / GBL 4 There’s also a PDF at supertopo.com
    • The Emeralds / The Benches / Negativity Slabs / Little Buddy, 5.10a sport *** / GBL 4 – and many more sport climbs
    • Bowman Valley / Rediscovery Dome / Thin Air, 5.8 trad ** / GBL 4

    I’ve not ticked bouldering as boulder problems are too easy to find.

    boulders-boulders-everywhere

     

     


  • 60 for 60 – Celebrating a Milestone

    P1060704
    click pic for a list of guidebooks

     

    So I plan to turn 60 this year and feel the need to do something special to celebrate. How about –

    60 new trad / sport / bouldering leads in 60 areas.

    60 new climbs means a new bouldering route, a new sport lead or a new trad lead – no top roped climbs will count . The definition of 60 areas I’m working on, but I definitely plan to expand my usual range.

    I’d really like to hear everyone’s recommendations for classic climbs in your area – it’ll make it more than a tick list if we’re working your local favorites – and better yet if you climb with us. Thanks!

    20131230111402I’m giving myself until the end of the year since my climbing partner has been somewhat out of sorts since 12/29/2013 due to recovering from a rotational elbow dislocation. We’re coming up on 6 months since and she seems to back near full strength – yay!

    Trip Planning

    • Tahoe Area
    • NW California (Bigfoot Country)
    • Oregon / Washington / SW Canada
    • Wyoming / Colorado
    • Utah / Idaho

    Click me to see pictures of the climbs so far

    Keeping Score / Trad Routes

    1. 05/28 Benton, CA / Benton Crags / Locals Only / Get Lost, Trad 5.7 single pitch. Seemed easy; 70m rope is just barely enough!
    2. 06/20 Sonora Pass / Chipmunk Flat / Eastbound Wall / Cornflakes and Classics, Trad 5.7 single pitch. Face to crack to chimney – nice variety. First ever trad lead fall. Beautiful, high quality granite and no crowds!
    3. 06/21 Mammoth Lakes / Horseshoe Slabs / Rodeo Rider, Trad 5.6 single pitch. I don’t recommend it, few opportunities for gear placements and the first one is really sketchy.
    4. 06/26 SF Bay Area / Castle Rock SP / Waterfall Cliff / Leading to Death, Mixed Trad, 5.9. First ever 5.9 trad lead. Watch out for poison oak!

    Keeping Score  / Sport Routes

    1. 04/11 Lone Pine, CA / Alabama Hills / Gunga Din / Alabama Dome / Southern Man, Sport, 5.9; straightforward. Anchors are over a lip which affects the rope pull.
    2. 06/21 Mammoth Lakes / Horseshoe Slabs / Horseman, Sport, 5.10a; great lead for me, heady crux at the first bolt and another crux up high. Highly recommended.

    Keeping Score / Bouldering Problems

    1. 03/10 Bishop, CA / Happy Boulders / Headbanger’s Cave / Beer Tumor Right V4; personal best, a great day.
    2. 05/23 Mammoth Lakes, CA / The Ravine / Various V0’s; recovering from sore elbow, good spot to warm up on varied climbs.
    3. 06/16 Marin County / Mickey’s Beach / The Beach Boulder / V0; beautiful sea shore. Low tide would be good. Our crash pad got a saltwater dunk.
    4. 06/19 Sonora Pass / Donnell Vista / Vista Corner / V0-R; perfect hands crack, kinda highball but you’re leaning in and can’t see the ground so it feels secure.
    5. 06/19 Sonora Pass / Switchback Boulders / Warm Up Wall / Climb 8 in SuperTopo / V1; slab with thin diagonal crack. Hard RH side pull then balancy reach with the LH. Later in the week, we returned and met Kerwin Klein at the Switchbacks. He pulled in talking about rehab for nerve damage and a beer belly, then proceeded to crush everything we were projecting…
    6. 06/23 Bear Valley / Hell’s Kitchen / Roadside Boulder / Northside Crack / V0-; “Perfect, short splitter”. My admiration for proficient crack climbers grows and grows.

  • Damn You, Rotator Cuff – LFMF

    “Generally speaking, pain is what makes the body a particularly important concern for the individual” – A.J. Vetlesen

    “Yes. Now that my fill_in_the_blank hurts less, I’ll probably stop doing what I did to make fill_in_the_blank feel better – until it hurts more again. Rinse and repeat…” –  Me

    The shoulder is a marvel of range of motion + ability to apply force in many different directions. When it all works, it’s awesome. When it gets sore –  different story.

    I suppose I’ve done everything I could to damage my shoulder – 1) years of playing tennis wherein the only thing I really liked to do was serve as hard as I could then get to the net for a volley –  long ground stroke rallies are for the patient. 2) more years of playing volleyball wherein the things I liked to do most were serve as hard as I could and then spike the ball hard whenever I got the chance.

    And now 3) I’ve taken up rock climbing and hard (for me) bouldering, which puts another severe load on the shoulder, although it’s more pulling and pushing rather than a throwing motion.

    Long story short, one shoulder is sore (I’m right handed so there’s a clue which one) and I’m now forced to take care of it.

    After a couple Google searches and a conversation with my soft tissue repair guy (whom I can’t recommend highly enough; he’s repaired me many, many times over the past 7 years), I’ve settled into this (almost) daily routine:

    1. Internal rotation, external rotation, scapular retraction exercises –  all with strength bands of various resistance levels. At the moment the external rotation is very weak and painful, but getting better. 2012/05/28 update – external rotation is now pain free at low weights; big improvement. Now I have to not overdo it on weight or reps per the article below…
    2. Shoulder flexor exercises by doing push-ups. Thanks to Alyssa’s sharing of this article, I now know how effective push-ups are for shoulder rehab.
    3. Bat wings
    4. Supraspinatus and Subscapularis lift. Stand holding a light pair of dumbbells in front of your thighs, palms facing each other. Keeping your thumbs pointed up, raise your arms up at a 30-degree angle to your torso until just above shoulder height. Hold for 1 second, and lower to the starting position. Do 2 sets of 8 to 10 repetitions.
    5. Scapular wall slides
    6. Light dumbbell military presses.
    7. Lots of ROM stretches
    8. Foam roller sessions to release the lats.
    9. Yoga stretches

    And, eat a low-inflammatory diet, take fish oil daily, get lots of sleep, and – probably most important of all – work on climbing endurance more often than climbing power until it all settles down.

    Examples of shoulder articulations.

    It all seems to be working (it was up until a couple days ago when I applied my “if some is good, a lot more must be a lot better” mantra, anyway). Please do your own research…

    I’d also like to hear what’s working for you in the Comments section below!

    Namaste, Rick

    P.S. – 2012/05/28 – found a nice T-Nation article on sore shoulders.

    P.P.S. – 2012/09/18 – found a good Men’s Health video on the “The Surprising NFL Shoulder Exercise”.


  • Yosemite Winter Climbing Weekend with Mat

    20120203YosemitewithMat 3up

    As has become usual for trips with Mat, short notice, late night driving and camping, big fun and outstanding results.

    I made a nice HD video of the funs. It’s HD, so if you’re on a slow Internet connection, you’ll need to let the video buffer or it will stutter and restart. Here’s an explanation of how to enjoy HD videos on the Internet.

    This time, the weather looked good for a trip to Yosemite NP –  unseasonably warm and dry –  sucks for our future water supply; works wonders for winter climbing trips. We spent our climbing time at Pat and Jack Pinnacle –  an excellent crag to learn to deal with Yosemite cracks and slabs.

    Climbs:

    • Knob Job, 5.10b trad, 4 stars, Mat led it twice, Carol and I followed twice. I haven’t yet gotten it clean; plan to go back and run laps on it until it goes clean and I’m ready to lead it.
    • Boneheads, 5.10b sport, 4 stars, Carol led it, I followed twice, Mat followed. The crux is right off the ground on slabby moves, be prepared to smear your climber onto the rock if they fall before the first bolt –  there are ankle-breaking rocks in the LZ.
    • Babble On, 5.10a trad, 2 stars (can’t imagine this rating, it looks like awesome fun), Mat led, Carol followed and cleaned. More adventure maybe than she planned on, as she slipped and fell under the roof  and found herself having to self rescue by ascending with Prusiks to get back up on the climb. Well done, Carol. I did not follow in deference to my sore shoulder –  the climb looks really physical.
    • Golden Needles, 5.8 trad, 3 stars, I led the bottom pitch which goes at 5.7 (we saw the second pitch; looked burly and I chose to come back another day, again in deference to my shoulder). I had a couple firsts here:
      • – about 5 placements up, I looked up and realized I didn’t have enough hand-sized gear for the rest of the pitch, so I lowered, got more gear then reclimbed.
      • –  I encountered maybe 10–15 feet of verticalish, pure crack –  I had to place gear with hands and feet in the crack –  a first for me and a real confidence booster.

    We wanted to get back on Sherrie’s Crack, 5.10c, but it was busy whenever we were in the area. Climbers were running laps on it and trading off leads –  some real inspirational stuff.

    Speaking of inspirational –  guy and gal are there; she’s running laps on Sherrie’s Crack while we’re doing our Knob Job thing. Once we’re off, she gears up to lead Knob Job; the guy starts backing slowly down the hill to get to the belay spot. I detect that something’s amiss; turns out October last he took a whipper on some Yosemite pinnacle, broke his patella (kneecap), had surgery to repair. He showed me the big scar and swollen knee –  and next I know he’s going to follow his partner on Knob Job. As he puts it, “I can climb cracks, because I lead with the good leg, stand up and drag the bad leg, then place it in the crack while I move my good leg up again.” Wow.

    We’ll be revisting this crag frequently to work those cracks and slabs –  our climbing gym is excellent for learning to face climb, but slab and crack climbing opportunities are sparse.

    Thanks to Mat for proposing the trip and getting us out and about!!!

    Namaste, Rick


  • TR – Sixteen Days and Eight Climbing Areas

    Carol sends "Tag Team", 5.10c at Kelly's Rock, Utah
    Road Trippin'

    Sixteen days, 8 different climbing areas in California and Utah, new rock climbing personal bests, new friends, old friends, givebacks to the climbing community, new climbers pushing their boundaries (and possibly spending less time underground and in canyons from now on!), dinners, drinks – just an outstanding outing.

    Climbing friends, keep reading and I’ll be talking about some awesome climbing areas you may never have heard of and/or that I know you’ll want to put on your “must do” lists.

    Guidebooks

    Please buy guidebooks. I’ve done a lot of writing, and it’s obvious what a labor of love these books are – the authors deserve our support. In general, they’re full of useful data about the general area, climbing history of the area, and can lead to so many awesome adventures.

    Climbing guidebooks for this trip!
    1 – Pine Creek Canyon / Bishop, CA

    Pine Creek Canyon – a place many climbers we’ve met have never heard of (ref. “Bishop Area Rock Climbs”), yet it’s full of beautiful Yosemite-grade granite (without the crowds). Over a hundred sport and trad climbs are listed in the guidebook.

    One of our objectives on the trip was to push our trad climbing personal best, so with this in mind, we headed up into Pine Creek to the Barbershop Buttress. The plan was to sport climb “Just a Little Trim” (5.9, 3/5 stars) to warm up, then head to a nice crack nearby to climb “Vegetarian Delight” (5.8, 2/5 stars). Turns out I got schooled on “Trim” as it turned out to be slabby and thin – I bailed, Carol jumped on and soon found herself at the top. We spent the rest of the afternoon reclimbing it; though I reclimbed it 3 times, I never did feel like “OK, I’m ready to lead this” – so we’ll be back.

    In the same area is Pratt’s Crack Gully, with 52 sport climbs 5.9 to 13a and 42 gear climbs 5.8 to 5.12a. Our impression is these are Old School ratings so you better bring your “A” game. We’ll be working this area for years to come.

    Click me for Pine Creek Canyon Pictures

    Continue reading  Post ID 1688


  • TR – Wherein We Tour the Land of Fruits and Nuts with Alabama Randy

    Randy shows off treasures found in the White Mountain peak register

    Early July of this year – I had just discovered my SNAFU with the dates for my Whitney Trail permit and Randy was one of the affected parties. Randy thought he could scramble and still make the trip, but together we arrived at the conclusion that 2 weeks in August would trump one week in July.

    Randy arrived at SFO on Saturday 8/13; we picked him up and headed to Tiburon for some lunch and a view of San Francisco from across the bay. Crawling through Saturday afternoon traffic in SF, I was reminded why we’re seldom in SF on a Saturday afternoon in a car. Some lunch, a visit to the railroad museum, then it’s “you want to see more City or something wilder?” – something wilder it is. We headed down Highway 1 towards Santa Cruz, stopping to see a few sights along the way. Dinner on the SC Wharf and then home where Randy crashed after a long, long day – Alabama time being 3 hours ahead of us, he was coming up on 20 hours or so of being awake.

    Next morning (Sunday), we went to our climbing gym for a little tuneup – turns out Randy, while a beginner climber, has some good intuition for body movement and climbed some nice routes. We abused him a little with a roof problem, some crack climbing and I think a mantel move or two, and all too soon we were all nicely burned out and ready to move on.

    On the way home, we decided to head east and get into the mountains right away. We packed all our gear – and Trebuchet – into the camper and headed out; my plan was to sleep just outside the YNP west entrance and then get into the park early in the morning. As we were nearing our camping spot, just a little after dusk, a mountain lion ran across the highway in front of us. Nice. I would not have been more surprised to see a herd of unicorns.

    The Donut Lady

    Monday morning, up and out and off to the Tuolumne Grove of giant Sequoias. There’s no picture I’ve seen that does justice to how big these trees are. The best perspective we got was actually an old dead tree lying down – incredible. We headed on east, stopping at Olmstead Point to take a look at some big granite. Nice views of Tenaya Canyon, Cloud’s Rest, Half Dome and other et cetera, but the Donut Lady had her back to all the scenery due to other priorities. Takes a lot of frosted deep-fried simple carbs to achieve that profile, I guess.

    We crawled on through Yosemite, parked just outside the East Entrance, and headed out for a little leg stretcher up Gaylor Peak. The map on the signage at the trail head called out Gaylor Peak at 12,750 feet, an amusing mistake. Wandering along, taking our time, taking pictures, looking at stuff, we were on Gaylor about 45 minutes later – ostensibly having gained 2,800 feet in that time, we were definitely in shape for any adventure we could dream up! We contemplated the Gaylor Lakes basin, the Cathedral Range and other outstanding scenery while snacking. We then downclimbed off the north end of Gaylor and made our way up to the old mining works. On the way back to the trail head we discovered the wonders of the mosquito bloom after a late summer. Continue reading  Post ID 1688


  • Mount Muir – My 11th, Carol’s 8th CA Fourteener

    Mountaineering /n./ – slow walking uphill while not feeling very well…

    Polemonium eximium and Mount Muir

    Mount Muir is located just off the Mount Whitney Trail, which means it’s in the Whitney Zone, which means it’s a PITA because of the Whitney Lottery. Last January, I collected names and exclusion dates from 3 friends, picked 10 2-night windows, and then sent in my application – and actually got a set of dates.

    I misread the dates, thought it was August, got all the parties lined up for that window, then for some reason picked up the permit again early morning July 2 – while planning a different trip to Colorado and Nebraska – and oh, crap, the dates are in July and only 2 weeks away. Carol was flexible but I lost everyone else; long story short after casting a wide net I found 4 people (Michelle, Hugo, Delia and Justin) to make use of the 6 permit slots.

    Another big oh, crap – living at sea level and having done no hiking or aerobic activities at all, we were ill prepared for the 18 miles and 12,000 feet of elevation gain and loss involved in getting from the Whitney Portal to Mount Muir and back – 12 miles and 8,000 vertical feet of that with backpacks.

    The good news is, we’ve played this Fourteener game before, and know what works for us to get acclimated.

    Sunday 7/10 – packed, loaded Trebuchet in the truck, headed for the Sierra Eastside via Highway 120 through Yosemite. Near Tioga Pass, I said something about “we should at least get out and stretch our legs today”; Carol noticed a sign that said “Mono Pass” so we parked, grabbed gear and headed out. Nice, easy hike (apart from fording some flooded streams) and great views along the way. Camped for the night at one of our favorite spots in the Mono Basin. I won’t say where, ’cause I don’t want to find you there. 😛

    Monday 7/11 – Mono Pass looked interesting from the west side; let’s go see what we missed on the east side of the pass. The hike starts at Walker Lake and climbs up through Bloody Canyon. Before we started, I assumed Bloody Canyon was named for the iron oxide in the rocks – not too far in, we decided it was named for all the bloody mosquitoes – Carol got to moving really fast once we hit the mosquitoes (of course our bug shirts were back in the truck). There were beautiful, Douglas Iris-filled meadows, but no one wanted to give enough blood to take pictures, so we kept moving. We ran out of food and water at Lower Sardine Lake, which was well worth hiking up to, and turned around. We had some fun along the way doing a short glissade and wading flooded streams with our boots around our necks (“Do not drop that boot in the water!”).

    Tuesday – rest day.

    Charlie the Mount Dana Marmot

    Wednesday – Mount Dana. 13,000 feet, flowers (including one of our favorites, Sky Pilots – one of the Fourteeners, Polemonium Peak, is named for them), pikas, marmots,  incredible views from the top – and a great test piece for high altitude acclimatization. We had never failed on a Fourteener attempt if we had climbed Mount Dana first. Great day out, Carol had her best Dana climb yet, snow fields to climb (and glissade on the way down), Charlie the Mount Dana Marmot was there to greet us at the top for the second year in a row. After snacks and some time spent enjoying the views, we made our way back down the mountain. One BIG highlight was getting to glissade down two long snow fields – number one, fun and number two, easy on the legs. Back at the car we headed for Lee Vining and Nicely’s restaurant, which produces the best fried chicken I’ve had anywhere (sorry, Mom) as well as an amazing bread pudding. We’re all about food rewards when we feel we’ve earned them.

    Thursday / Friday – rest, drop Trebuchet off for boarding while we’re in the backcountry, meet up with Michelle and Hugo, get permits set up,  camp at Lone Pine campground.

    Continue reading  Post ID 1688